Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Premier Cru "Séchet" 2017

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One of Chablis' most prestigious proprietors, Vincent Dauvissat farms nearly thiry acres of meticulously kept vineyards. These vines (4.5 acres of Vaillons, 2 of Sechets, and 9.4 of Forets among the Premiers Crus, 2.5 of Preuses and 4.5 of Clos among the Grands Crus) are splendidly sited on hillsides underlain by Jurassic limestone. Yields are limited to about 50 hectoliters per hectare, modest by the standards of the region.

Vinification at the domaine is painstaking and traditional at a time when many growers in Chablis have adopted methods that permit increased yields and produce simple wines that reach maturity quickly. Vincent Dauvissat, on the other hand, gives all his wines at least a year in Nevers oak, a portion of which is new each vintage. This practice, imposed on first-quality grapes slowly and carefully fermented, results in wines that are deep, complex and long-lived. They are clearly characteristic of their respective cru, exhibiting the steely bite so typical of Chablis, but with an intensity of flavor and a structural soundness increasingly rare in the region's wines.

A loyal following among France's most esteemed restaurateurs sharply limits the availability of Dauvissat wines for export. Nonetheless, it is no surprise that they have attracted the praise and attention.